Towing the trailer through the winding back roads of Sonoma with my 04 Land Cruiser 4.7L v8 gave me the confidence that this trailer was the right size for this car. The other thing I noticed was how low to the ground the trailer was. Occasionally the rear scissor jacks would scrape.

Emblems from the Era

The post The Drive Home appeared first on Streamline Custom Off Road.

The original jack was a 2 bolt system so it had to go

I used a Milwaukee Sawzall to cut through the steel tongue & C channels

Bulldog Collar-Lok A-Frame Trailer Coupler Tongue 2″ Ball 7,000 lbs

Electric Jack from Harbor Freight & ready for welding 

The post Trailer Tongue & Jack appeared first on Streamline Custom Off Road.

The side emergency escape window had also been leaking for years so the whole back half of the trailer, the wall paneling, plywood subfloor, and lower wood drawers were rotted out.

The original fiberglass shower stall and bathroom are an off white, slightly yellow.

I will be researching how to repaint fiberglass.

Carefully removing the shower stall and tub.

Exposing the plywood dry rot.

The first order of the day, clean house and a much needed wash!

It was all original late 60’s styling including the “Must Have” TV antenna.

The teardown and interior gutting went on for several months putting in the time between working 3 & 4 photo shoots a day.

The transformers were rusted beyound use. Out with them.

The post Gut Bathroom & Bedroom appeared first on Streamline Custom Off Road.

The moment I laid eyes on this Milwaukee M12 FUEL Installation Drill/Driver, I had to have it.

Their ad states” Four (4) dedicated heads, including a 3/8” Chuck, Offset Driver, ¼” Hex, and Right Angle, can attach in 16 different positions. This provides you with a 4-in-1 drilling and driving solution that is purposefully designed to reach uniquely challenging locations.”

It turned out to be one of the best tool purchases I have made and I highly recommend it.

This is a picture of how it was used to removed impossible to reach wall screws.

The dining room walls and kitchen cabinets were in good shape and they were removed without damage.

The plywood subfloor was also in good shape, BUT, someone in the distant past had replaced the plywood subfloor and just cut out the old floor along the edge of the wall.

That left an original plywood strip holding up the wall. 

This was bad because it was mostly rotted and compressed. The outer walls had sank down at least 1/4”.

This outside photo shows how far the aluminum body had curled up. This photo was taken after the new subfloor was added under the walls.

Underneeth the subfloor was a rats nest of filth.

The post Remove Kitchen & Subfloor appeared first on Streamline Custom Off Road.

So it was a learning experience to learn about the OTHER deadbolt purpose.

Besides keeping the trailer safely locked, it keeps the door from opening when traveling on the road (or off-road )

Trailers have a lot of flex, especially around the doorframe and the regular door latch & striker will quickly wear out.

The Streamline entry door lever has 2 positions.

• Twist it to the right to open the door.
• Twist it to the Left and the latch will retract into the door so it will not be rubbing and wear out.

This is where the Deadbolt comes into play. It takes all of the friction abuse and it’s thick enough to take it.

Original Deadbolt and door latch.

The original deadbolt wasn’t working right so I opened up the door paneling to check it out.

The wood backing support had turned to dust

Clean it out and cut new backing.

The backing is hardwood and paint coated with boiled linseed oil to resist dry rot.

Liberal amount of calking glue.

Then bore out the deadbolt location.

I love the modern look

The post Replace Deadbolt appeared first on Streamline Custom Off Road.

But after considering the off road boondocking stress I would be putting on it I could foresee a deep grove being worn into the latchbolt from the thin striker edge.

zit would be best to build my own striker with a long tongue and broad surface for reduced wear and spring tension.

I started with a 1/8” Stainless Steel plate and cut it to size. It also needed a lip to cover a cutout in the doorframe.

Our next door neighbor had a full carpenter shop and a commercial milling machine.

He was kind enough to mill out the striker pattern. 

I had to put down the camera to oil the bit

We also switched to a more aggressive bit

Ready for the mounting holes

The post Door Striker appeared first on Streamline Custom Off Road.

Someone tried to break in through a Jalousie window, bent the side connecting arms that rotate the glass and broke two 835 Philips Hinges (Pivot Brackets).

I spent a year (while doing other trailer projects) looking for a replacement window. Nothing.

Out of necessity I decided to try and fix/repair the one I had.

Hehr windows were typical on many trailers with variations in dimensions and number of louvers.

Bent side connecting arms

Broken Philips Hinges (Pivot Brackets)

After assessing the damaged parts verses what could be bent back into straightness

I located the parts from https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com

835 Philips Hinges (Pivot Brackets)

The new 835 Philips Hinges (Pivot Brackets) were cast instead of stamped so they were slightly thicker than the original and they would rub on the connecting arms.

The red line that I am grinding off is all it took to gain the clearance needed.

The new 835 Philips Hinges are mounted.

Stainless Steel Semi-Blind hole rivets

Right Side Mount Operator w/ Notch Product Code: VTS-644

Clean up and assembly.

I was able to straighten the two side connecting arms but this was the only picture, no video

The post Repair Damaged Jalousie Louvered window appeared first on Streamline Custom Off Road.